A sight in the Warszawa region

Warsaw's Royal Route — one axis that organises the whole city

A chain of streets and avenues runs from Castle Square to Wilanów, and almost everything worth seeing in Warsaw stands along it. The Royal Route is not a single monument but a way of using the city: a little over ten kilometres on which the history arrives in order, from the royal castle to a king's country palace.

fot. Hrs Poland, CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

What the Royal Route actually is

The name is informal and covers no single street. The route starts at Castle Square, runs down Krakowskie Przedmieście, becomes Nowy Świat, then Ujazdów Avenue, and finally reaches Wilanów along Belwederska and Sobieskiego streets. That is a little over ten kilometres — a full day on foot if you stop along the way.

The word royal is literal. There is a ruler's seat at each end: the Royal Castle by Castle Square and Wilanów Palace, the private residence of King John III Sobieski. In between you pass Łazienki Park and the Belweder.

Since 1994 the axis has carried Poland's highest heritage designation, Monument of History, as part of the historic urban complex of Warsaw together with the Royal Route and Wilanów. What is protected is the whole arrangement — the street space, its scale, its trees and its sightlines — rather than any one building.

Built in stages, over four centuries

The oldest stretch was simply the road out of the medieval town. A suburb was already growing by the Kraków Gate in the 14th century, and the road led from here to Czersk and on towards Kraków — which is where the name Krakowskie Przedmieście, the Kraków Suburb, comes from. It is now just over a kilometre long, was fully paved around 1762 and got gas lighting in 1855.

Nowy Świat, the New World, takes its name from settlement that spread beyond the city walls in the 17th century along the old road to Ujazdów. It runs for about another kilometre.

The biggest surprise is the newest part. Ujazdów Avenue, today roughly 1.6 km long, was laid out in 1722–1732 on the orders of Augustus II as a Calvary road: fourteen metres wide, planted with limes, lined with 28 chapels designed by Joachim Daniel Jauch. The chapels were taken down in the later 18th century and the processional road turned into a grand avenue. Ujazdów Park was only laid out alongside it in 1893–1896.

What you pass

The first stretch is the densest: St Anne's Church, whose bell tower has a viewing terrace, the Carmelite church, the Presidential Palace, the Potocki Palace, the Holy Cross Basilica, the Visitationist church, the Kazimierz Palace with the University of Warsaw courtyard, and the Staszic Palace. Monuments to Mickiewicz, Copernicus, Poniatowski and Cardinal Wyszyński stand between them.

Beyond Nowy Świat the route crosses Three Crosses Square with St Alexander's church, then changes character entirely. Ujazdów Avenue is wide, shaded and lined with palaces and villas, many of which became legations and embassies after the First World War; Ujazdów Park and Ujazdów Castle lie on its eastern side.

Further south, Łazienki Park opens on the right with its Palace on the Isle, then the Belweder, and the route ends at Wilanów Palace and its gardens. The last section along Belwederska and Sobieskiego is ordinary city street, and most people take a bus for it.

Destroyed, rebuilt, then handed back to pedestrians

What you walk today is neither the pre-war street nor a faithful copy of it. The buildings along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat were wrecked during the defence of Warsaw in 1939 and the Warsaw Uprising, and the post-war rebuilding deliberately made the street more uniform than it had ever been.

Facades were lowered — to two to four storeys on Krakowskie Przedmieście and to two on Nowy Świat, matching the maximum height permitted in the days of the Congress Kingdom — and some houses were given a classicist dress they never originally had. Work on Nowy Świat began in March 1947 and the street reopened to traffic on 22 July 1949; most of Krakowskie Przedmieście was finished by 1951.

The second transformation was about cars. In 1996 the roadway on Nowy Świat was narrowed from fourteen metres to seven and private vehicles were removed; Krakowskie Przedmieście followed in 2006–2008 to a design by Krzysztof Domaradzki. A narrow lane down the middle now carries buses and taxis, and the rest belongs to people on foot.

Getting there and making it work

  • Metro — line M2 serves both ends of the city-centre section, at Ratusz Arsenał and Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet.
  • Bus — several routes run along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Ujazdów Avenue all the way to Wilanów, which is the easy way to cover the southern half.
  • On foot — split it: walk Castle Square to Three Crosses Square, then treat Łazienki and Wilanów as separate destinations.
  • By car — don't. Nowy Świat and Krakowskie Przedmieście are closed to private traffic and parking nearby is paid and scarce.
  • Worth knowing — this is a working part of the capital. State ceremonies and demonstrations happen regularly outside the Presidential Palace, and sections of the street close when they do.

How to get there and practical info

Location
Śródmieście and Wilanów districts of Warsaw, from Castle Square to Wilanów Palace
Length
a little over ten kilometres; Krakowskie Przedmieście about 1 km, Nowy Świat about 1 km, Ujazdów Avenue about 1.6 km
Time needed
two hours for the city-centre walk, a full day with interiors
Heritage status
Monument of History since 1994, within the historic urban complex of Warsaw with the Royal Route and Wilanów
Mapa: Google Maps · 52.2364, 21.0180

When to go

Spring

The best time for the full route: the avenue and Łazienki come into leaf while the central stretch is still uncrowded enough to see the architecture.

Summer

Long evenings and pavement cafés on Nowy Świat, but there is almost no shade between Castle Square and Three Crosses Square — walk it in the morning or after five.

Autumn

Ujazdów Avenue and Łazienki in autumn colour are the finest part of the whole walk, though the short day forces a choice between walking and going inside.

Winter

The central section is lit and unusually photogenic after dark, while the southern half through the parks loses most of its appeal.

Other sights in Warszawa

Straight-line distances from „Royal Route, Warsaw" — calculated from real coordinates. By road it is often further.

Krakowskie PrzedmieścieWarsaw's most ceremonial street — the Presidential Palace, the University, the church
~526 m as the crow flies
The Palace of Culture and ScienceWarsaw's tallest building (237 m) from the 1950s, a gift from the USSR — a viewing te
~921 m as the crow flies
The Copernicus Science CentreA large interactive science centre on the Vistula — several hundred hands-on exhibits and
~943 m as the crow flies
The Royal Castle and the old townThe residence of the kings and parliament, rebuilt from the rubble, and the old town aroun
~1,3 km as the crow flies
Ujazdów ParkListed landscape park on Aleje Ujazdowskie, laid out by 1896: a pond, Lindley's concr
~1,7 km as the crow flies
Former Ministry of Religious Denominations and Public EducationAn interwar government building on Aleja Szucha whose basement held the Warsaw Gestapo
~2,1 km as the crow flies
The POLIN MuseumAn architecturally acclaimed museum of the history of Polish Jews, on the site of the form
~2,2 km as the crow flies
Warsaw Water FiltersListed waterworks in Warsaw designed by William Lindley, in operation since 1886 and a His
~2,4 km as the crow flies
The Warsaw Rising MuseumA multimedia museum of the 1944 uprising in a former tram power station — with a replica b
~2,6 km as the crow flies
Łazienki ParkWarsaw's largest park with the neoclassical Palace on the Isle, the Chopin monument a
~2,6 km as the crow flies
MorysinThe Potocki family's Romantic park behind Wilanów Palace, now a nature reserve with t
~8,7 km as the crow flies
Wilanów PalaceThe Baroque residence of King John III Sobieski with its gardens — one of the few Warsaw m
~9,4 km as the crow flies

Where to stay nearby

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