A sight in the Lower Silesian Voivodeship region

Legnickie Pole — a baroque abbey on the field of the 1241 battle

Ten kilometres from Legnica stands a church laid out by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer on two crossed ellipses and frescoed by Cosmas Damian Asam. Benedictines built it where Silesia had commemorated, since the thirteenth century, the defeat of its knights by a Mongol army and the death of Duke Henry II the Pious.

fot. PetrusSilesius, CC BY-SA 2.0 de · Wikimedia Commons

What happened here in 1241

On 9 April 1241, during the first Mongol invasion of Poland, the army of Duke Henry II the Pious met a Mongol force near Legnica. The Christian side brought together knights from Silesia, Lesser and Greater Poland, Opole and Moravia, along with Templars; estimates put each army in the low thousands. The battle was lost and the duke was killed.

His body is said to have been identified by his widow Anna, a Bohemian princess, from a distinctive physical detail, and was buried at the Franciscan friary in Wrocław. The Silesian state the Henry dukes had built fell apart, and the reunification of Poland's fragmented duchies was delayed for decades.

Historians still debate the exact ground. The sources speak of Wahlstatt, or Dobre Pole, which is not necessarily the present village, though the fighting may have moved this way. Either way, the memory attached itself to this place and stayed.

From memorial priory to abbey

The foundation came from the women of the duke's family: St Hedwig, his mother, and Anna, his widow. They established a priory and gave it to Benedictines from Opatovice in Bohemia. The property was lost at the Reformation and only returned to the order in 1703, when Abbot Othmar Daniel Zinke of Broumov bought it back.

Zinke rebuilt from scratch. Work began in 1719; in 1723 the Benedictines were allowed their own parish and the monastery's foundation stone was laid, with the church's following five years later. The shell was finished in 1729, Bishop Elias von Sommerfeld consecrated the church on 7 October 1731, and the fitting out continued until 1733.

Crossed ellipses and a painted ceiling

The architect was Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, a leading figure of Central European baroque. He set the nave on two crossed, elongated ellipses placed diagonally to the main axis, so the space seems to turn around you rather than march you towards the altar, and covered it with elliptical domed vaults.

The semicircular west front carries carved panoplies of weapons, shields and banners between two square towers whose baroque helmets are topped with princely crowns; atlantes support the main portal. Karl Joseph Hiernle carved the sculpture inside and out, the side-altar decoration and the organ case.

Cosmas Damian Asam painted the ceiling frescoes in the summer of 1733. They show Benedictine missionary work, including the founding of this very monastery, with the mourning of Henry the Pious above the choir. The high altar painting of 1730, St Hedwig finding her son's body, is by the Flemish painter Johan Franz de Backer; the four side altars were painted by the Bohemian Wenzel Lorenz Reiner, and the organ was built by the Silesian maker Adam Horatio Casparini.

The monastery after the monks

Prussia took Silesia in 1742, and the secularisation of 1810 confiscated the abbey's property. From 1838 to 1920 the buildings held a Prussian cadet academy, later a Nazi party school, and in the last years of the war a prisoner-of-war camp. Soviet forces occupied them after 1945.

A psychiatric clinic operated here from 1957 to 1990; the buildings now serve as a care home. The church itself remained in use, became a diocesan pilgrimage church in 1992, and was raised to the rank of minor basilica on 15 June 2014; it has been a collegiate church since 2017.

Next to it stands the older gothic church, Protestant until 1945. Since 1961 it has housed the Museum of the Battle of Legnica, a branch of the Copper Museum in Legnica, with a permanent display on the Mongol invasion. The big lime tree beside the church carries a legend about the duke's head being buried beneath it — a story, not a documented fact.

Getting there

  • By car — the village sits about 10 km south-east of Legnica, right on the A4 motorway between Wrocław and Legnica, which makes it an easy stop on a Lower Silesia road trip.
  • By train — the line from Jaworzyna Śląska to Legnica serves the village; from Legnica the journey takes about a quarter of an hour.
  • By bus — regional services from Legnica, with fewer departures at weekends.
  • By air — the nearest international airport is Wrocław, roughly an hour away by road.

Practical notes

Start in the museum in the gothic church, then walk over to the basilica: knowing who the figures above the choir are makes the frescoes far more rewarding. Bring binoculars if you care about the detail in the vaults.

This is a working parish and pilgrimage church, so sightseeing fits around services. Combine the visit with Legnica and its Piast castle, or with the baroque churches further south in Lower Silesia.

The ensemble — basilica, Holy Trinity church, monastery and garden pavilion — was declared a Historic Monument of Poland by presidential order of 14 April 2004, the country's highest level of heritage recognition.

How to get there and practical info

Location
Legnickie Pole, Legnica County, Lower Silesian Voivodeship — about 10 km south-east of Legnica, beside the A4 motorway
Built
church 1719–1733, consecrated 7 October 1731; monastery from 1723
Who made it
designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, frescoes by Cosmas Damian Asam (1733), sculpture by Karl Joseph Hiernle, high altar painting by Johan Franz de Backer (1730), organ by Adam Horatio Casparini
Interior plan
nave built on two crossed, elongated ellipses set diagonally to the main axis, under elliptical domed vaults
The battle
9 April 1241 — the knights led by Henry II the Pious were defeated by a Mongol army and the duke was killed
Museum
Museum of the Battle of Legnica in the gothic Holy Trinity church, since 1961, a branch of the Copper Museum in Legnica
Heritage status
heritage register no. 58, 29 March 1949; Historic Monument of Poland since 14 April 2004; minor basilica since 15 June 2014, collegiate church since 2017
Time needed
an hour for the church, two with the museum and the abbey grounds
Mapa: Google Maps · 51.1458, 16.2428

When to go

Spring

The anniversary of the battle falls in early April, so commemorations are likely. With the fields still low, both churches stand out from a distance.

Summer

The busiest months, helped by the motorway junction nearby. The cool interior is a good reason to linger on a hot day.

Autumn

Quiet, with soft light on the pale facade. Daylight matters for the frescoes and it runs short, so come earlier in the day.

Winter

Fewest visitors; the church is mainly open around services and the museum keeps winter hours, so check before travelling.

Other sights in Lower Silesian Voivodeship

Straight-line distances from „Church of St Hedwig, Legnickie Pole" — calculated from real coordinates. By road it is often further.

Churches of Peace in Jawor and ŚwidnicaTwo Lutheran timber-framed churches of the 1650s in Lower Silesia, the largest of their ki
~11 km as the crow flies

Where to stay nearby

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