A sight in the Łódź Voivodeship region

Uniejów: Poland's first thermal spa town

This town of three thousand people on the river Warta became, in 2012, the first place in Poland granted spa status on the strength of hot water from deep underground rather than a brine spring or a peat bed. Alongside the pools stand a Gothic archbishops' castle and a fourteenth-century collegiate church.

fot. Jerzy Strzelecki, CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

A gas well that turned into a spa

This spa exists by accident. In 1978, while prospecting for natural gas and oil, drillers found something else: hot, heavily mineralised water in the chalk. For years nobody knew what to do with it. Only in the 2000s did the local authority build first a geothermal heating plant on top of it, and then swimming pools.

In 2008 Uniejów obtained certificates confirming the therapeutic properties of its water and its local climate, which opened the way to the remaining formalities. Spa status arrived in 2012, by regulation of the Prime Minister, and covered Spycimierz, Spycimierz-Kolonia, Zieleń and Człopy as well as the town itself. It was the first case of its kind in Poland: a thermal spa, where the principal resource is the water's temperature and not only its chemistry.

The water comes from boreholes reaching more than two kilometres down and arrives at the surface at about 68 degrees. It is a hot brine carrying sulphur, radon, fluorine, chlorides of copper and iron, metasilicic acid compounds and iodine, with an iodine content compared to that of the Baltic. The same water heats buildings in the town, which is the quieter of the two things Uniejów is proud of.

Bathing in hot brine

The thermal pools opened in 2008, and on 26 May 2012 a larger facility followed, with indoor and outdoor basins and a sauna area. All of it is municipally owned and runs year-round, because the water comes out of the ground hot whatever the weather.

Bathing in hot brine is not swimming. The water is heavy and distinctly mineral, and at this temperature the body heats up fast, which is why the usual advice is cycles of a quarter of an hour with breaks rather than an hour at a stretch. A residue is left on the skin afterwards and is worth rinsing off. Anyone with uncontrolled high blood pressure or heart disease should ask a doctor first: hot brine puts real load on the circulation.

Winter makes the strongest impression. In frost the steam above the outdoor pools is thick enough to hide the far side, and that is when the contrast in temperature is sharpest. In summer the effect fades, because the gap between water and air is smaller.

Castle, collegiate church and town

Uniejów belonged for centuries to the archbishops of Gniezno, and the two most important buildings are theirs. The castle, of the fourteenth century, stands over the Warta in a park laid out in the second half of the nineteenth century, and has been on the register of monuments since 1967. Its history is eventful even by Polish standards: castle and town were looted in 1492, and Swedish troops sacked the place in 1656.

The Collegiate Church of the Assumption is Gothic, built between 1342 and 1349 and consecrated in 1365. Between the market square and the church stands a free-standing neo-Baroque bell tower of 1901, some twenty-five metres high — one of the features that orders the view of the town from a distance.

The remaining monuments are small but add up to a coherent picture of a provincial church town: a manor house of about 1845, the Toll family chapel on the road to Dąbie, restored in 2022, and several Second World War bunkers in and around the town. For the record, Uniejów received town rights around 1285, lost them in 1870 as a reprisal after the January Uprising, and regained them in 1919.

Getting there and what to know

  • By car — easiest on the A2 motorway, leaving near Wartkowice or Dąbie, then some fifteen kilometres of local roads.
  • From Łódź — about an hour to the north-west; longer from Poznań or Warsaw, but motorway all the way.
  • By train — no station in the town; the nearest services are at Kutno and Koło.
  • By bus — services from Łódź, Poddębice and Koło, stopping in the centre.
  • Spycimierz — a village inside the spa area that lays a flower carpet along the whole Corpus Christi procession route each year.
  • Time needed — a day for the town and a bathe; a weekend or more for a course of treatment.

How to get there and practical info

Location
Łódź Voivodeship, on the river Warta, about an hour from Łódź
What it is
Poland's first thermal spa; status granted in 2012
Healing resource
hot brine from over 2 km down, at about 68 degrees
Water chemistry
sulphur, radon, fluorine, copper and iron chlorides, metasilicic acid compounds, iodine
Spa area
Uniejów plus Spycimierz, Spycimierz-Kolonia, Zieleń and Człopy
Monuments
fourteenth-century archbishops' castle, collegiate church of 1342–1349, bell tower of 1901
Geothermal heating
the same water heats buildings in the town
Time needed
a day; a weekend or longer for treatment
Note
hot brine loads the circulation — check with a doctor if you have heart or blood pressure problems
Current opening times and tickets
official website of the Uniejów commune
Mapa: Google Maps · 51.9743, 18.7931

When to go

Spring

The Warta is at its fullest and the castle park looks its best, while the pools are still quiet. A good time to combine a bathe with an unhurried walk round the town.

Summer

The busiest season and the time for events in the spa grounds, including a knights' tournament and a market. The temperature contrast in the water is least noticeable now.

Autumn

Quiet weeks: the warm water starts to make sense and the crowds have not arrived. The flat countryside colours only briefly.

Winter

The best season for the outdoor basins: thick steam above the water and the widest gap from the air temperature. The town is silent, with no queues at castle or church.

Other sights in Łódź Voivodeship

Straight-line distances from „Uniejów thermal spa" — calculated from real coordinates. By road it is often further.

Old Cemetery in ŁódźŁódź's three-faith necropolis, begun in 1855: mill owners' mausoleums, the Schei
~49 km as the crow flies
Izrael Poznański's factoryThe largest factory complex of old Łódź: halls built between 1872 and 1892, a spinning mil
~50 km as the crow flies
Izrael Poznański PalacePoland's largest industrialist residence, known as the Louvre of Łódź — now home to t
~50 km as the crow flies
Plac Wolności (Freedom Square), ŁódźAn octagonal square at the top of Piotrkowska Street, with a neoclassical town hall, a dom
~50 km as the crow flies
Piotrkowska StreetThe main street of Łódź: four kilometres of industrialists' tenements, hidden courtya
~50 km as the crow flies
Łódź New Jewish CemeteryPoland's largest Jewish cemetery: the Poznański mausoleum, Art Nouveau headstones and
~51 km as the crow flies
Moniuszki StreetA mill owner's private street from 1885: a row of neo-Renaissance villas and the firs
~51 km as the crow flies
Łódź Urban Culture ParkWooden houses moved from across Łódź, two laid-out streets and an exhibition on everyday l
~53 km as the crow flies
The White Factory (Biała Fabryka)Ludwik Geyer's classicist cotton mill of 1835–1837, now home to the Central Museum of
~53 km as the crow flies
Karl Scheibler's Palace in ŁódźKarl Scheibler's neo-Renaissance residence on plac Zwycięstwa in Łódź, with its groun
~53 km as the crow flies
Ludwik Geyer's manor houseA classicist manor of 1833 at Piotrkowska 286 — Ludwik Geyer's first brick house, tod
~53 km as the crow flies
Źródliska ParkThe oldest park in Łódź, laid out in 1840: three-hundred-year-old oaks, three ponds, a pal
~53 km as the crow flies
Księży MłynScheibler's complex in Łódź: brick workers' houses, a 207-metre spinning mill, a
~53 km as the crow flies

Where to stay nearby

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